I am in the process of building a new 50'x200' climate/temperature contolled building.
How do I heat and cool it? The building is a single sloped roof with the high side being 9 1/2 feet and the low side 8 1/2 feet.
Do I use a heat pump and force air? I have a person quoting me $5000 for each 50'x50' section. I think this is rediculous. The pad for this 10,000 sq ft building is already poured. I would welcome all comments. Thank you, Carter
We request your patience while we locate someone who is better suited to answer your question than some of us 'regulars' on the forum. While we could give you our two cents worth, that's about all it would be.
My only suggestion; as time consuming and frustrating as it can be is to get a couple more quotes for your project and then compare the bids and make your decision based on the combined information you receive from the different vendors. Good luck.
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I am not an attorney, just an experienced manager who is willing to share what I have learned. Your thoughts, practices or opinions may vary and neither of us may be right.
Here is a recent climate-control ISS article just posted in the past couple of weeks. I'll try to get a hold of the author, a representative from BETCO (don't know if he's on SST or not) and see if I can get him to respond: http://www.insideselfstorage.com/art...e-control.html
If you haven't already, be sure to talk to your building supplier about how other customers typically do the mechanicals in their buildings. They'll know what works best, then it's just a matter of making sure that their suggestion is compatible with codes in your area.
Four heat pump units sounds like this bidder is using standard office, retail and residential calculations, which are for maintaining an even 72 degrees year-round with no humidity control. Unless you have this building separated into two halves, with two units per half for redundancy, and each unit is only 2-tons. I would think that two 3- or 4-ton units should be about right for 10,000 square feet. "Climate-controlled storage" is most often advertised as a range of 55 to 80 degrees.
Where is your facility located? This could make a difference in my suggestions for system type. Here in the southeast, heat pumps work fine, but be sure to get a variable control system, with a humidistat set to kick on with low-speed fan at 50% relative humidity.
Have you already committed to a particular floor plan? Have you confirmed that the market needs this much climate-controlled storage? I find in our area that premiums for CC storage have fallen due to lack of demand. Often, drive-up units are in higher demand than CC. You might consider putting drive-up units around the perimeter of the building, or at least along one side, reducing your CC interior space, and your HVAC unit size requirements also.
Keep in mind that having interior hallways does not necessarily mean you must use an HVAC system. I have planned numerous interior hallways that are simply vented by the 1" gap above all the exterior roll-up doors. Or you can install a ventilation fan and vent.
Be sure and read my article on Dry-Air Storage for which "jcarlisle" sent you a link. (See above.) This is a third price option between CC and traditional storage that is starting to catch on in the current economy and will continue when energy costs start going back up.
All the best!
Last edited by David_Montané; 14th September 2009 at 07:30 PM.
Reason: placement of link is above, not below.
I agree with David from Betco. remember its all about humidity control.... not heating and cooling. Research old ISS articles... there are bunches on climate control building do and dont's ......
I think it depends on what climate area you are in . I have built several CC stores in FL where I put in 1 ton of cooling per 1000 gross sf, with minimal elec. heat. In north (Illinois, Missouri) 1 ton cooling per 1750 sf, w/gas Heat. Cool or heat the general area Not each individual space, cool/heat by osmosis. provide space at top of partitions for good circulation. If this were my new 10,000 SF building with reasonable insulation I would install 2 -3 ton units with about 80-90,000 btu's of heat capability. However just in case, I would make sure that there is enough electricity to add 1 additional 3 ton unit in case i goofed!
Last edited by tbrooks57; 5th October 2009 at 05:16 PM.