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LED Lighting

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  • LED Lighting

    How many of you are using LED lighting. We switched all of our wall packs and pole lights to LED a few months back. It is really reducing our electric bill. This is something you can do that will pay for itself. .Each wall pack cost $165 installed. Once they have paid for them selves you really start saving. Have your electrical contractor check with your local electric company some of them offer rebates on the light itself

  • #2
    We are in the process of changing over to be completely LED lighting. Or main man does all of it. He knows his stuff.
    "Never let the inmates run the asylum!"


    • #3
      Dave Scott - do you know the wattage of your wall packs?


      • #4
        What brand did you go with?


        • #5
          tomokc and Micah, are you asking me or Dave Scott?
          "Never let the inmates run the asylum!"


          • #6
            I would love to know the brand each of you picked if possible, with as much detail as you want to divulge as far as price, hour rating, and wattage, etc...


            • #7
              Originally posted by tomokc View Post
              Dave Scott - do you know the wattage of your wall packs?
              We went from 400 watt to 40 watt LED Make of wall pack (get this one) Paclight


              • #8
                As I said, my maint man is a wiz at this. He takes the light housing for either florescent or the old sodium lights and removes the ballast and reinstalls the reflector after he adds a universal light receptacle mounting bracket that comes out and up at the edge of the reflector. He mounts two screw in bulb receptacles to the bracket. The two LED bulbs are $7 each, and the bracket/receptacles are $6. Total cost of $20 in parts and the ballast is not needed for the LED lights. The old florescent bulb was 2800 lumens and the new two LED bulbs are 3000 lumens total. Last 4 times longer, uses less electricity, not nearly as hot and that prolongs the life of the light cover. I have watched him gut an old box and install/wire in this equipment and have it all working in less than 45 minutes. Almost forgot, the wattage for each bulb is 14 watt.
                "Never let the inmates run the asylum!"


                • #9
                  That's another benefit of a brand new facility... we're 100% LED w/everything on occupancy sensors.


                  • #10
                    Couple things to watch out for with those LED lights.

                    I am an onsite manager, and I'm approaching it from a standpoint of "usability." So if you need advice on the power usage, energy savings, etc. you'll need to ask someone else. (i.e. I don't pay the electric bill for those.)

                    1. Whatever people say about those LED lights, they don't put out the same illumination as the old sodium halide lights that we had installed before. I remember the first night when they replaced all sodium lights with those LEDs, I looked at the site and my immediate reaction was, "Wow, these are much dimmer." The same effect happens with your surveillance cameras. I could definitely see less at night. One difference that people seem to notice with those LED lights is that they seem to be brighter when you look at them. That is true. The light itself seems to "blind you" more when you look at it directly. But somehow their overall output vs. sodium lights is not the same.

                    2. Another gotcha with those LED lights. Make sure to find an electrician who knows how to install them. The idiot contractor that installed ours (about 2-3 years ago) didn't know that he was not supposed to touch the LED light bulb. As a result now we get a cascade of failures when we get one of those LED lights go out every month. What seems to be happening is that the light melts some plastic piece inside (I'll attach a photo below) because of the finger grease that is on it. So that is not only a fire hazard, it will also be quite spendy.


                    • #11
                      It takes time but the oil that is naturally on your fingers, fingerprints, will cause a reaction over time and effect the longevity of the bulb. Same with halogen bulbs that you can plug in to the back of your vehicle headlight housings.
                      "Never let the inmates run the asylum!"


                      • #12
                        What an enlightening discussion.

                        The conversion process mentioned with $7 bulbs has some problems. If you check, you will find those are to be used inside a room. Like inside you lamp. They give out the wattage and lumens but absolutely need air flow across them to keep them cool. Inside a closed fixture, they get too hot and burn up anything susceptible to heat. They are not safe and do not last.

                        The bulbs designed for enclosed fixtures have fans and safety heat sensors in them. They cost about $40, minimum. But they hide some of the lumens created because they do not reflect the light coming from the back side..

                        Converting the light source may not help as much if the existing light has design flaws, aging discolored lenses, or poor reflectors. A bad light fixture can reduce the visibility that is needed even with new bulbs.

                        I would encourage replacement. Changing the fixture to a new better deign can run about $65, plus installation. I will tell you which fixture I recommend below.

                        Here are the factors and features that help to help customers to see THE AISLES.

                        --- It is not the watts but the lumens that matter. The design of the fixture affects how much lumens get outside of the fixture. Some produce 80 lumens per watt and others can produce as high as 130 lumens per watt. A 40 watt bulb at 80 produces less than a 30 watt bulb at 130. Each fixture tells you how much gets out.

                        --- Plastic lenses yellow with age and light intensity shoots craps way to early. Use glass and light will stay more consistant

                        --- The color of the light greatly affects how well we can see. A nice clean "daylight" color works well. Color is measured in Kelvins. Don't worry about what kelvins are. Studies show that light at 5000 kelvins is 50% more visible than 3000 kelvins. They are 200% more visible than 2000 kelvins (High pressure sodium). 6000 or 7000 kelvins seems too "blue" and feel harsh.

                        --- The angle that the fixture disperses the light affects how much of the light is usable. Most of the light that shines in your eyes as you drive down the aisles is wasted. A lot of light produces goes up into the sky or sideways and is does not help you to see. Sideways just makes it harder to see because of the glare.

                        A fixture that points mostly downwards or is adjustable is better. Beware some of the downward lights are have too narrow of a beam and is wasted on the wall. Some only light up about 5-7 feet from the wall.

                        I like a light with an adjustable beam. A 90 to 120 degrees dispersion and an adjustable (up and down) light allows you to put some of the wall, across the drive, and about to the top of the door on the adjacent building.

                        There is almost no glare to see from the highway. Almost all of the light goes where it needs to go. The aisles are bright but the lights are not glaring.

                        My previous lights were 75 watt high pressure sodium (fairly orange). I replaced them with 30 watt (3900 lumens) downward adjustable lights. The light was sent in a 120 degree. That allowed me to cover the wall below the light (somewhat) , the aisle, and the wall adjacent.

                        The 120 degree angle spread the light sideways 28 foot sideways and the lights were 7 foot off of the ground. You can figure that the width of the light will be 4 times the height. If yours is higher, you may need more lumens. If you like it VERY well lit,you may add more lumens. This felt good and only uses 1/3 of the HPS wattage.

                        In answer to TomOKC's question, you can get away with about 40% of the watts of existing HPS lights. You may need 50% of the watts for a less efficient setup. I know that Dave Scott said 40 watts replaced 400 watts. But, i suspect his lights were HID and not HPS. There is a difference.

                        You can see the lights I used at $65 and that included free shipping and no sales tax.

                        I was really impressed by how rugged the fixture was. I also liked the small 6" x 6" footprint the fixture has. that allows it to fit in some of the narrow ribbed siding at my facility. Wider would not have worked.

                        I hope this helps save you some time. It took a lot of study to finally select a fixture that is well designed for self storage. If it helps you, great.



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