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Day in the life- Constructing a New Facility location

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  • #16
    Movin on up. Today bulldozer work almost done. One more day before the Labor day weekend and we will be done with all the major dirt work. The Contractor who got in the accident actually drove his car to the site to check on it.

    Had some Rip Rap 6 to 18 inch rock brought in. See the pictures. This is on top of the Black mesh you can see in one picture that I am driving over. These are where the site water run off that discharges into the Storm retention pond will hit to slow the water down so it does not scour out the pond. The Black material is "Engineer Fabric", get the Woven kind. This comes in 12 foot wide or 15 foot wide rolls. Bought two 25 foot sections from the local landscape supply house. This is place under the rock, so the water does not eat away the soil. Use this same material if you are doing rock driveways. You don't need as much rock and you will never have potholes.

    Next week the contractor who is putting in the Drain tiles and Apartment drain tiles will start to put his pipe in. The ends will be pointed at this rock, so I got it in ahead of him.
    riprap1.JPGRip 3.JPGRip 2.JPG
    Updated Retaining wall contractors to come finish small wall.

    Underneath this pond is a private sewer line going up to the Apartment complex on the left. Our Attorney is working up an easement to allow their line on our property. This was never recorded. The Development folks won't give us a build permit unless we get this in place.
    We were originally going to tap into it, but our Engineer said to tap into the Main line. That way if any maintenance is ever needed on the Apartment line there is no dispute who has to pay. About the same distance and cost either way.

    Building contractor is working up both his final bid and the order for the Phase 1 of the buildings. He can start working on building pads next week after the holiday.

    Will meet next week with the Electrician to put in a temporary service so the contractors can have electricity.

    Road curbs will get cut next week so we can drive in smooth versus over the 4 inch curb.

    Everything is now going smooth, just need to stay ahead thinking for the various contractors.
    Attached Files

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    • #17
      I cheated. Know this weekend is called Labor Day, but I just didn't want to work that hard. Have about 100 Tree and shrub plants to put in. Decided to rent a mini excavator to dig the holes. The construction dirt and the untouched dirt was hard all around due to how dry it is. Cost $325 with the trailer for 8 clock hours. Have it till Tuesday after the Holiday. Got all of the required plant holes done. Will go back sometime and put some extra holes where I want to plant more. Started at 9 and was done by 2pm digging the holes, putting in tree stakes (used two steel T posts) and filling with black topsoil. Ended up costing about $3.25 per hole, not counting my time or replacement fuel. Lets say $4.00 per hole. It would have taken me a week in this hard soil to do by hand.

      Second step, is to put in black top soil. Luckily my neighbor who does trucking for one of the potting soil companies has a mountain of it for some reason. Had him deliver a dump truck load or 12 yards for $350. Saved me about 5 pickup loads and loading/unloading it. Filled in each hole with about five 5 gallon buckets. Only got have of the holes filled. To hot. Will finish another day.

      Put two T posts in every other hole for the trees. Shrubs won't need.

      Will show you later how I make tree guards out of 4 inch drainage tile about 4 foot tall. This is to tie the strings around the tree, and also to keep the deer from shredding the new trees with their antlers. You can re-use these forever. They don't deteriorate. Take them off as the tree outgrows them.




      miniexc.JPGtree holes.JPG

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      • #18
        Started planting right before the temperature dropped from 100 degrees one day, then down to 55 for a high the next day. Will be cool and wet for the next two weeks. Dirt was bone dry, but now, due to two slow days of rain, we're good.

        Dug the holes with the mini excavator above.
        Put steel posts in for tree support.
        Cut tree guards out of 4 inch corrugated drainage pipe. Used the Chainsaw to cut down the middle. Then with someone holding the end, I cut them into 3 to 4 foot sections.
        Put the guard on the tree first. Then plant the tree. Tie plastic string around to hold the tree. This will keep the tree upright and protect against deer rubbing the tree.
        Might not be able to tell from the tree picture. Built a little dam up front and left a little low in back. This will help in both catching rain water and as we needed to water the tree. It will get and keep more water.
        These guards will come off in about 2 to 3 years. If the tree grows faster than that or if I forget, the plastic will expand an open up as the tree grows. No bugs or diseases inside, plenty of air flow.

        tree gaurd.JPGtree staking.JPG

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        • #19
          Paid for Permit last Friday. $19,000 which is under budget. This pays for the whole project, even though we will build part this year and next.
          Our surveyors are out laying out the first set of buildings. Not real clear, but the tall stakes are the actual corners of the buildings. The smaller stakes are "offsets". In case you have to dig up the corner stake, you can triangulate from the smaller "offset" stakes back to the corner. They give you two of them at exactly 90 degrees to the building corner. Just measure equidistant from both, at 90 degrees and that is the corner.

          Ground is a little soft from our recent rains.
          Building contractor will start to move equipment in and setup to start putting footings and pads in.
          Plumber is waiting on a Storm drain, then he will come put that in and the Office water, sewer, etc.
          Retaining wall company has just a little new section of wall to build.

          Paid 30% down for the building material. Back log puts us into late November or December to erect buildings.
          Would like to get all Phase 1 building pads and roads in. As we get good weather throughout the winter, then assemble.
          The office will be the first building assembled, so Plumbing, electric, and Security can start to use it for all control panels.

          Will be tight with the weather. Would like to be operational on some units going into next spring, just to get our location "out there" with the public.


          survey.JPG

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          • #20
            Houston we have take off.

            Two contractors moved on site to do work.

            The building contractor is putting footings in for the Office first. That way the plumber, electrician and security contractors can start setting up and trenching to the main hub.

            The parking lots drains from the neighbors. We are putting in trenches to our Storm water retention pond.

            I will break this up into a couple of posts.

            Below is the office footing which just got poured.

            a. Our building contractor recommends a floating slab, but our city requires all buildings to have footings. We would have needed them for the office anyways since it is heated during the winter. But for the rest of the project this will cost about $400,000 more than is needed per the building vendor.

            b. The pink styrofoam is required by the city. This office will have a 10 inch trench with 2 inch foam and 8 inch concrete. All other buildings will be 8 inches. The city has no requirements on thickness. We could have gone with 2 inches. They just require a footing.

            c. The builder is cleaning up a "Corner" form. They built these to put less effort into the corners. Otherwise they have to build a corner form. She is both cleaning the form which was pulled about an hour after the concrete was poured. Then she will spray in down with oil to make it easy to pull out on the next pour. Will show a picture of them pulling our of the corner using chains on the top holes.

            d. Didn't show a picture, but down in the trench is a 20foot piece of rebar that is built in a "L" shape. The long side is in the ground and the short side will stick up about 6 inches on the inside of the building wall. The electricians will attached a copper cable to it and the building. This will ground the building from an electric strike. This will save all of the cameras and lights. Also this will prevent the opposite end of the building from the Lightning strike from being blown out.

            e. What should happen next, is we would form and build the pad on top of this, before rain and dirt get on the top of the footing. But we will probably wait a week until the Plumber has a chance to dig underneath the footing (his preference, versus beforehand) and set the Sewer, water, etc inside the building.

            f. Electrician will come from under ground outside the buildings and not through the concrete.


            rr office.JPG

            rr corner form.JPG

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            • #21
              Next is the trencher they use. This group custom builds a lot of their equipment attachments since they have a machine shop also.

              a. They used to use a Terabite, basically a mini excavator with an arm and scoop. This took a very long time. They bought and modified this trencher just for the jobs they have done for me and use it for any other buildings they do.

              b. Note the teeth. This is the set up for an 8 inch trench. The office due to the 2 inch foam had to be 10 inches. I missed taking a picture but they built extended teeth to make this a 10 inch machine. Then they just took them off, to get back to 8 inches.

              c. This machine flies compared to the Terabite. The only problem they have run into is if the ground is wet. Then the machine has a hard time getting a grip to pull the trencher. They then will attach a tractor or skidsteer in front to give it more grip, or just wait a day till it dries.

              d. The third picture shows they have measured the footprint of the building and have marked the trench with orange paint on the dirt. If you magnify the front of the machine you will see about a 10 foot bar out front. This is used as a guide for the driver to follow the line out front, since he can't see directly in front of his machine. Just like a gun sight.

              e. Picture one you see the Augur wheels. One for each side. This takes the dirt that is being scooped up and throws it away from the trench. This keeps them from having to both clean dirt out of the trench (totally clean bottom) and also moves the dirt away from the trench so they don't kick it in as they are putting the rebar in. They used to have to move the dirt away with rakes and shovels. They built this.




              rr trencher.JPG
              rr trencher back.JPG

              rr trench mark.JPG

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              • #22
                Next up is the drain tile contractor. He will be putting in two drains for the Apartment complex parking lots above us. He will attach them together where they meet.

                Then he will put in a "Drain" tile along the Retaining wall. This is to catch underground seep water from the hill above, which was causing the field to have a wet spot.

                Both contractors had a hard time getting on site. The building contractor had a blow out on a trailer coming up and had to send someone back for an impact wrench to change the tire. The drain contractor had his skid steer trailer stolen, then found, notified it was at the police impound, so it took him a while to get his skid steer on site. He uses it to place rock in the bottom of the ditch and also to put the drain pipes in the trench.

                He is putting in a 24 inch pipe, starting from the Storm retention pond and working backwards. This will narrow down to a 10 inch pipe for the far parking lot drain and also the "Drain" field tile. I asked him to switch buckets when he gets to the 10 inch pipes so he both doesn't dig out as much dirt, but also so the dirt will settle and compact quicker on the 10 Inch line, versus using the bucket for the 24 inch line. These trenches are being built where concrete roads will go. The more they "settle" the less cracks I will have in the roads. He will compact as he goes, but it still won't be as good as solid dirt.


                rr parking lot drain dig.JPG

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                • #23
                  Clarkstoragellc Great information for the new people getting into the business.

                  In regards to the floating slabs, what reason are you getting for needing something different? I know I can still use a floating slab here in the Cedar Rapids area. I would imagine it may not be hard to get a variance to that requirement if there is not a specific reason that sit can't use a floating slab. Most of my buildings are over 20 years old with floating slabs and they have all performed great.

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                  • #24
                    RandyL
                    Flat building requirement in this city for all buildings to have frost free footings. Already went through all of the formal routes. Building manufacturer provided a letter from their engineer, but they have no test data. Thus City would not accept the manufacturers engineer letter.

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                    • #25
                      The excavator completed putting in the 24 inch drain pipe for the parking lot drainage from the apartment above us. Next he capped the 24 inch pipe and then inserted a 6 inch field drainage pipe. I didn't catch this operation. He did change the shovel heads to a smaller shovel. That way we have less dirt that needs to compact and less chance for our roads to develop cracks in them.

                      The guy in the ditch is measuring the depth versus the tripod gps locator. They are putting in a 2 % grade to have the water drain out.

                      The drainage pipe is on a large reel behind the pickup truck. As they hold it at the end, then someone drives forward and unreels it.

                      The close up of the pipe shows the slatted holes for the water to seep into the pipe then run down the pipe. There are three ways to "Rest" the pipe in the ground: a. Put the pipe in first and then put loose rock in above it. So water will seep down to the pipe. This is the revers of a sewer field where you want to loose the grey water. There you would put the rock down first, with the pipe above it, so the water seep down., b. Your pipe has a "Sock" over it to keep dirt getting into the pipe and clogging it up., c. This contractor for this type of pipe is just laying it into the ground and covering it up. Since it is not very heavy duty, he can't tamp the soil above it down. This leaves greater risk for the concrete road above it to develop cracks since the soil may not have compacted over the winter.

                      drain ditch.JPGdrain pipe.JPGdrain pipe close.JPG

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                      • #26
                        Why aren’t you using rigid perforated pipe?

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                        • #27
                          Middlebury.storage
                          Thanks for the question. I don't always cover everything. Just to make sure we are all on the same page. There are two reasons to put a pipe in the ground:

                          1. If you have your own septic system, behind it will be a leach field. This is to remove the grey water from your system.
                          2. Is to take water out of the ground to dry it up.

                          Both of these work with the same concept but in reverse.

                          The water and soil have a "wicking" process. The water will go to the soil where there is less moisture.

                          In the septic system you have a lot of water, thus it goes away from the pipe to soil with less water. The soil actually draws the water.

                          In the field drain system the dry pipe with air in it draws the water from the soil around it. Our field drain pipe will "wick" or draw water from 40 foot away on both sides. As the seep water from the hill above our property comes close to this line, it will start to draw the water.

                          Back to the question of why we didn't use perforated pipe?
                          Perforated pipe is normally used in septic drain systems. They have bigger holes since you want to "get rid" of water. To keep them clean because the holes are so big; you should put "clean" rock (rock without the dust and fines) both underneath it and on top. On top of the top rock, you should put garden mesh so the dirt doesn't filter through the rock and into the pipe, clogging it.

                          The agricultural field drain pipe and system was designed to take water out of the ground, not require tons of rock and to also not silt in. Thus in our situation we went with the Agricultural drain tile. You would think the water once it came into the pipe would also leave the pipe through similar holes. Due to this pipe having its end open to the air, a suction effect occurs and the water travels done the pipe and out the end.

                          Thanks for the question. If you have one please ask. I don't fully explain all aspects.


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                          • #28
                            Great weather so far, plus next 14 days. Going through a drought which is good for building. Luckily temperatures are going down and the crops are finishing for the season.

                            Thus far we have the footings for the Office done. We will not pour the pad on top of it until the Plumber digs his drains and waterline up through the floor. Just marked out all the sinks, commodes, shower, drains, hot water heater with flags. This will be the first building we put up, so the Electrician, plumber, security, etc can start putting their main switches and boxes in the office.

                            The next two small buildings they have poured the footings and now have: a. placed rock grit on the ground, b. put plastic moisture barrier down, c. laid rebar across. If you can tell the rebar is a green color. They have switched to using Fiber glass rebar versus metal. Its stronger than steel and doesn't rust which can cause problems with the concrete bonding to the metal. Costs a little more, but easier to handle, stronger and doesn't rust. These are ready to pour the pad, but all of the concrete plants and trucks are backed up till Wednesday.

                            In the mean time they are trenching the next two pads. I have already showed you the machine they use to dig the trenches. After they are done trenching they have to dig the loose dirt out at the corners. Since last week, they have a machine shop and just bought a skidsteer; over the weekend they made an attachment on the skidsteer so they can drag it on the bottom and clean out the loose dirt at the corners. This saves a lot of time since the dirt is about 40 inches down in a narrow trench. Hard to get it out with a shovel.
                            rr trench.JPG
                            rr trench mark.JPG
                            rr trench depth.JPGrr trench cleaner.JPG

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                            • #29
                              Beautiful weather. Dry and cool. Concrete construction crew is rolling along.
                              Got two of the small pads poured and frames torn off.
                              They just poured the second two buildings footings. It will take them Mon/Tuesday and Wednesday to get the sand, vapor barrier sheet and rebar in place.

                              Plumber is supposed to come on site next week. They will install the storm outlet drain and the facilities to the office.

                              Kind of excited to see the plumber tap into the sewer and water lines. I always thought they cut the service off for everyone and then cut into the line and added an extension. But I guess they "tap" or drill into the lines while they are live and attach. Have to see how they do that without getting sprayed.

                              They are moving a lot faster on this project with the skidsteer to move the trench dirt, removable steel corner forms and the attachment to clean dirt out of the trench corners.

                              Have one more pad site where the white trailer is, to do, then we will be done with these small buildings at the entrance.

                              Move on to three larger building pads, 230/250/250 long 40/30/40 widths. Have to check next week on the delivery schedule and the building crew.


                              p rr pads.JPGp pads rr 2.JPG

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                              • #30
                                Pads on the previous pictures have now been poured. Showing you the side angle. The gap between these pads is due to the sewer line to the apartment above running through. I was not allowed to build over it. Had to leave a 20 foot gap. The line is about 12 foot deep.

                                Also in the picture is the drain cover for the lower Apartment parking lot. We are now safe if we have a big rain. This water will go underground to the Storm retention pond.

                                The second picture shows the corner of the pads. We are putting doors all around. Thus the 1 inch drop goes on all 4 sides. The roll up doors will go down to this level so water and rain will not go under the door and into the unit. Shaping this is the longest part of the pour. Thus on big pours, even though they could pour the whole slab, for example a 250 foot slab. They will probably only pour half of it, so they have time to go back and shape this dip, before the concrete sets up to much to form the barrier. They normally shape it with a shovel, by shoveling out the concrete. Once they put boards there about an inch low and then took them out and then shaped. Took more time.

                                The last picture is of the last pad at the entrance to the facility. They will finish trenching Friday. Then put grit, vapor barrier and rebar down. Will get a sequence of this for you.

                                Called the plumber. He should have the Storm retention pond outlet back from the concrete forming company. Had to be specially sized. This holds up all of the front work since it is the deepest digging. Then the Sewer, Water, electric, internet, gate wiring and them the concrete entrance will be put in sequence based on digging depth, who needs to get done first.


                                p lot drain.JPG
                                corner door lip.JPG
                                front pad.JPG

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