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Day in the life- Constructing a New Facility location

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  • #31
    Little further info from yesterday. This is a Friday, before the weekend. They decided to pour part of the footing above just so weather or anyone didn't get dirt in the trench. They then finished digging the rest of the trench.

    Since they only poured part of the footing, I'm able to give you the split shot of the Footing and the rebar pattern they used. Note this is traditional steel rebar.

    The next pictures are of fiberglass rebar. They used the steel in the footings since you can bend the Steel and then tie the Fiberglass to the steel for the floor rebar. If you used the fiberglass in the footings you would need to cut the fiberglass footing rods and then "tie" the floor rods to them. This isn't as strong as using the steel in the footings.

    Fiberglass is slightly more expensive, but it only weighs about a 1/3 of steel. Is easy to cut with a saw. But most importantly does not rust. If your steel rebar rusts before or while you are using, the concrete doesn't bond as well.

    Hopefully will catch them laying the grit and the moisture barrier, then the fiberglass rebar on Monday.

    Once they pour this pad, all of the small lower building pads will be done. My plumber, electrician, security contractors can then run their material, before the concrete road crew comes in about 2 weeks.

    Although we are in a drought, this is really perfect weather for construction, dry and cool.

    WHY- footings. Most storage is Floating Slabs. This city has a requirement for all buildings, unless they are 10 x 12 or smaller to have footings. No exceptions. I have contested this, but since this manufacturer and others don't have soil/temperature tests backing up the Floating slab concept we have to put footings in. This project due to the footings, both material and labor, will run about $300,000 more just for the footings versus a floating slab. Not to mention the added construction time. Put this on your new build checklist.


    p footing.JPG

    fib rebar.JPG

    fib rebar sticks.JPG


    • #32
      Showing you the crushed rock fill on top of the dirt, then the plastic moisture barrier. This plastic moisture barrier will help keep the concrete from Sweating with temperature changes. Although this is needed, it can cause a problem in the summer when you are pouring. If it is to hot and you don't keep the fresh concrete either wet with burlap sack material wetted down or by spraying concrete sealer right after you pour the concrete can dry out to fast. The moisture barrier assists this drying to fast, since no moisture can come from the ground.

      You can see the fiberglass rod is now tied to the metal rods on the sides which can be manually bent down wards. The orange knobs are so no one trips and stabs themselves. They will be removed as it is poured.

      Not to get to deep into concrete pouring, but if it is really hot during the summer they will actually add ICE to cool the mixture down, otherwise it won't "set" and firm up. During the winter when it is to cold, so the concrete doesn't freeze and flake; they will add chemicals to "heat" up the concrete and to also make it set faster. If the surface freezes before it sets, it will flake later.

      p moist.JPG
      p fill.JPG
      p filler.JPG
      p pad.JPG


      • #33
        Two topics: Concrete Surface and Forming

        Concrete Surface-

        Once the concrete has been poured, you worry about it cracking. To prevent this there are several ways and means to accomplish. But I still get cracks.

        A. Ground compaction- The better packed the less the ground will move and then the concrete cracking. You can do this several ways. 1. One the soil needs to have so much moisture in it. If too dry it won't compact enough. 2. You can use a Sheepsfoot roller. Same as a round roller but with knobs on it. All of the weight of the machine goes to the points, making for significantly more compaction. Would you prefer to be stepped on by the heel of a High Heel shoe or the fore foot? 3. A vibratory roller, with sheepsfoot. This causes the ground to vibrate and the soil to fill in and compact better. 4. Driving heavy vehicles over it. 5. Mounding the dirt several feet above the site and leaving for a while, to let the weight of the dirt compact it. Then moving the extra dirt. 6. Don't compact at all if you are on Virgin soil and it has been there for ever and is firm. And you have remove the grass and the loose top soil. 7. You can actually compact the dirt to much and then it starts to turn to jello. 8. How much to compact? Usually 6 to 12 inches, depending on the type of compaction. Each new level is called a "lift" as in your lifting the height of the soil. If you put to much dirt in a lift it wont compact. For example if you put 4 feet of dirt in one lift, even a tank won't compact down that far.

        B. Wetting the surface- The longer concrete stays wet, the stronger it gets. If it is under water, it just keeps getting stronger to a point. You can either spray water on the surface. Put burlap cloth on top of the concrete and wet it down. This stays wet longer than just water. The stronger the concrete the more it will "bind" and less chance of cracking. Remember we put plastic as a moisture barrier under the concrete. This actually hurts the concrete, since it can't get moisture from the ground as it is drying. Thus be careful in hot, dry and windy weather to keep the concrete moist so it doesn't dry out to quickly. If you have storage that the floors "Sweat" during the summer, they didn't put a plastic moisture barrier under it. Your tenants goods will get wet and mold during the summer and early spring when the ground and air temperatures change significantly. Nothing you can do, but tell them to put valuables on pallets.

        C. Spray the surface- use a concrete sealer on the surface. By sealing the surface you are slowing down the evaporation of the concrete, specifically from the surface, which would dry out quicker than the bottom or the middle. Puts less surface tension on the top.

        D. Sawing- this is both meant to relief surface tension on the concrete and hopefully to guide cracks along the cut. My cracks always go through the cut and not travel with it, thus this doesn't work for me. You can Saw "Dry" or "Wet". "Dry" sawing is after the concrete has set for a while, longer than 24 hours. "Wet" sawing is just after the concrete has "Set" and achieved a firm state. "Wet" sawing is normally better, but after a long day of pouring concrete, no one usually likes to stay late and saw.


        After the footing has been done, then you put in place the Forms for the foundation. I have already shown you the grit, plastic moisture barrier and rebar. So this is just the "Forms" on the outside of the pad.
        A. Forms around the side- main objective is to keep it level. The pad I am showing you is a 40 foot wide pad. To get it flat they will use a special Vibratory "Screed" to level and flatten the surface that covers the full 40 feet. This form guides the Screed at the same height across the pour.
        B. Pins- Iron stakes or pins are used around the sides to attach to the wooden forms or boards to keep them at the right height and to also keep the form from bowing out with the pressure of the concrete. The pins are then screwed to the board through a hole.
        C. Rebar bending- Once the Form height has been established, then you bend the side rebar which will tie it to the footing to a mid point on the form, to tie the cross rebars to. You want all of these side rebars at the same height. The Contractor I have is very mechanically inclined and made their own piece of equipment to hold the rebar, measure the height relative to the top of the form, and then to set the height while the other person is bending the rebar.

        p form corner.JPG
        p rebar positioner and bend.JPG
        p bend rebar.JPG
        p rebar bend head.JPG
        p stake.JPG


        • #34
          After we pour concrete the concrete truck will want to both clean his equipment and wash out his concrete mixer. They will spray down the equipment and rinse out the mixer. If your doing several pours you will want to or be required to by the city to have a clean out area. This is both to keep concrete piles all over your jobsite from occurring and until the concrete hardens getting into the water stream system. What I do, is to lay a blue tarp down to help keeping the water from spreading. Also make it easier to remove with a skid steer. Then we frame 2x6's or larger around the edge. Our city requires a "Wash Out" sign, thus the painted plywood. If it starts to fill up over the course of the job, I will tear apart and use the cement for fill or washout areas. On this site, we will move this further into the jobsite as this area starts to get poured for roads, since I don't want the heavy concrete trucks driving over our new roads. They will use the construction access road which I have shown you.

          rr wash out.JPG
          Attached Files


          • #35
            So our 3 inches of snow finally dried up. Racing to get the last three large slabs in. 40/30/40 wide; 230/250/250 long.
            They had the crushed rock layed and smoothed out with a skid steer. To get it truly flat they use a Screed to level across the 40 foot width. The screed is both moving towards the end. And also has a vibratory action to level the crushed rock. They will use this same process to level the concrete.

            The second picture you see a metal stake in the ground. With a small cable it is attached to a winch on the screed. There is the same set up on the other side. It is slowly winching and pulling towards the stake.

            This is a 40 wide slab. They take out a section for a 30 wide slab. All hand made in their machine shop.

            Really juggling and coercing Plumber to get his water and sewer lines done. They go deepest, and then the electrician and then the road crew.

            Each back up, backs the other trades up. Mother nature is knocking on the door. Record low temps this past week. Should be okay as long as we don't get precip.

            p screed back.JPG
            p screed pull.JPG


            • #36
              Big day yesterday and today. This clip they are pouring the second half of a 40 x 200 slab. They could pour all in one day, but you have to stop, to set the rain guard edge in the lip of the concrete. The concrete has to be stiff enough so when you shovel the raw shape out it doesn't run, but light enough to finish it. Setting this edge takes longer than pouring the concrete. They sped it up by buying this machine.

              Step 1: take out excess concrete with a flat shovel.
              Step 2: they use this hydraulic driven roller and finisher to smooth the edge.
              Step 3: This machine runs off of hydraulics. There is a machine you can buy to power it, but then you have to move two pieces by hand. They set it up to attach to their tractor and the tractor both powers the unit and moves the hoses.

              p edge.JPG
              p edge smooth.JPG
              p hydr.JPG
              Attached Files


              • #37
                Had about 4 contractors on site Monday and Tuesday was hectic. Couldn't wait to get some off and done. Bull dozer had two hours left, then he pulled off site. Retaining wall had a day left and got done. Just got the bill. Below are the plumbers.

                1. Office plumbing- water, sewer, commode, sink, shower, washer. We don't use a manager, but we are setting up, for if we ever sell. There will be about 360 units at this location. Maybe less. Might try larger sizes.
                2. Water and Sewer tap in to mainline. The black pipe is the sewer. I would like to be around to take pictures. It is my understanding on both the Sewer and the water, they "tap" into the line and don't actually cut the pipe or line. I'm usually not there when they do.

                Cant tell from this picture, but this is the same layout 20 x 30 as our other office we built last year. We are reducing the size of the Bathroom down to 5 x 10, versus 10 x 10; just don't need that much space.

                On our first bathroom my prior plumbers had a lot of trouble meeting ADA compliance. Put in a 4 legged sink, which a wheel chair can't come under, had to replace. Put the Stool in too far from the wall. So they had to build the wall out 4 inches towards the stool, versus re-doing the plumbing. Looks a little weird. By shortening the bathroom another ADA point I learned was for our town you have to have 60 inch minimum width so a Wheelchair can do a complete circle. Must be different sets of rules by building type. Most Handicap bathroom "Stalls" I have seen are not 60 inches wide. But hey as long as we are compliant.

                The one lasts ADA step to remember is to have the concrete guys build a hump in front of the bathroom and office. They forgot to do at our last location and we had to build a metal ramp. Have to remember to not hit when doing snow.

                p plumb.JPG
                p plumb d.JPG
                p s w.JPG
                p ada.JPG


                • #38
                  Doing the office plumbing, which includes finishing out when ready will run $12,000. The Sewer and water tap in, Storm pond outlet and bout 300 foot of curb drains and gutter will run about $40,000. Will show this later.


                  • #39
                    Retaining wall finished up. All our fences and walls usually are about 1 foot off the property line. The first picture looks like it is coming across the straight fence line, which it is. About 10 foot to the right of the wall out of the picture is our corner boundary and the property line runs along the back of the cars facing the fence. They have an easement for this land. Both the apartment and our land used to be owned by the same person.

                    The second picture is to help support the land for the pad to the right of it. Has dirt on it, so hard to see. Same pad in both wall pictures. This is a 15 foot wide pad. Originally I was going to do a 20. But we have to plant between the wall and the building so I shrunk the width down. I won't plant the shrubs on top of the wall till spring, so the building erectors don't have to step around it. I did go ahead and put grass seed down and grass mat. Really to late in the year, here for seeding, but put it down anyways. Should sprout in the spring.

                    All of the retaining walls combined equaled about 2,000 square feet. Ended up being $36,000. Cleaned the edges of the property up on the two pictures below. And the real long wall pushed the hill back to we could add about 28 more units. Will be close penciling out to revenue, but makes the property look a lot cleaner.

                    Also put a "Dry" wash area to drain water from behind our building and next to apartment complex. Otherwise water would back up into part of the apartment. Used a skid steer to dig the ditch out. Then put extra silt fence material I had down to prevent soil erosion. Then put rip rap in it to slow the water down and to hold the fabric in place. Again this is to get water around the apartment building to the right which our property line is only about 4 feet off their building corner.

                    p wall 3.JPG
                    p wall 4.JPG
                    p dry.JPG


                    • #40
                      Learn something everyday. The pad below is 40 foot wide. To give it a smooth surface they are running a "float" over it. Made a comment about using the Bull float, and they said no, this is a "Fresno" float. Guess the Bull float is used to level the concrete a little better than the power screed they use. Then they use the Fresno float to give it a better finish. Two people pushing and pulling. The person on the far side to pick it up and move it to the side.

                      Electricians are working around everyone. Plumber and Concrete. They really laid a lot of underground line out this day. They will have to come back when the other trades are further along. Decided we would run two underground cables. Since the site is so long, one cable will handle the near buildings and the larger cable will handle the farthest 1/3 of the buildings. This is due to the distance and losing voltage over that far.


                      • #41
                        Great weather today around 75. Normal should be 50. Had both the Road and the pad contractors going to town. Racing Mother Nature. The limiting factor right now is everyone is crushing it before winter sets in and no concrete can be poured. You have to schedule three days in advance for concrete. Concrete offices open at 6:30 and if you haven't called by 7:30 all the slots 3 days out are taken. Once the ground freezes you can't pour concrete on it, unless you keep the ground warm with heat blankets which is expensive and time consuming. And then you have to keep the poured concrete warm. Concrete generally has to be above 40 degrees, otherwise the concrete won't set and you just have mud and gravel.

                        Attachment one below showing you two things. The metal rod with the orange safety stop so you don't trip and stab yourself is the Electric ground for this pad. It is about a 20 foot piece of rebar bent in a long L shape with about 2 1/2 feet above ground. This will help with any lightning hits or electrical issues, from frying your camera or computer systems, or blowing the back wall out of your building.

                        At the base of the building you can now see how the building Rain guard lip and then the Road work together to keep water out of the building. The rain guard lip is about 1 inch below the floor. The black rubber guard on the roll up door will provide a sill so the rain doesn't blow under the door. If it does, then the 1 inch concrete lip keeps the water out.

                        The road is also set about 1 inch below the pad, helping to keep the water out. Also if we have frost heave, the road will still be below the pad or at worst even with it, thus keeping water out.

                        Second attachment are forms I placed while they were pouring the concrete. These are on the corners of the buildings where we will put steel post bollards. We could have let them pour over this, but then we would have to pay about $100 per hole to have a concrete "core" driller come out to use a circular saw to cut a hole. We will come back later with a post hole digger and dig down 3 feet. Then put a 7 foot steel post in. Then we will pour concrete into the hole. I do it the lazy way. I pour water into the hole. Then I slowly pour the dry concrete into the hole. That way I don't have to mix the concrete above ground. Will show you later.

                        p ground rod.JPG
                        p Boulard holes.JPG


                        • #42
                          Beautiful days and a lot getting done.

                          Road crew are pouring the final half of a section. We normally do 25 foot wide roads, you could do 20. Splitting that is 12.5 feet half sections. A concrete truck is roughly 8 feet wide. Thus they are able to back down and pour the last half.

                          By doing two slab halves they are able to put a V in the middle to let the water run down. Normally you don't want this to occur, because if water gets between and underneath, it will erode out the road. I will get a close up picture how they interlock the two slabs later.

                          Again on the picture above in the right front corner, you can see I put in a cardboard circular form to come back later and put in our Bollard to protect the corners of the buildings.

                          The next picture they are pulling a brush across the fresh driveway concrete. This bristly brush will put a rougher texture to the surface making it safer to drive on, versus leaving a smooth surface.

                          The next picture shows the grey foam they are putting between the building pad and as they pour the road. This is expansion joint so as the ground heaves or thaws the road and the building pad move separately.

                          Below is our existing office front. On the ground you will note a metal ramp to get into both the office and the bathroom. We have to be ADA compliant and we forgot to pour the concrete for the road higher to meet the office. Don't have a picture, but we remembered and got it right on this site. My builder did a great job on the ramp and securing it, but its just one snow push or knock away from dislodging.

                          Its Friday and we can't get anymore concrete this week. So the builder will work to get the final and last pad ready to pour. He has 1/2 of the previous pad to pour on Monday. Since its Thanksgiving next week, he will probably not start the pour on the last pad.

                          The road crew won't get concrete till next week, so they are forming up the roads and getting ready for next week. Once everyone is offsite this weekend. I need to go and lower the dry wash area I did. Its about a foot high in about a 10 foot area. Otherwise water will dam up behind it a little. Also need to build another dry wash area, which I will explain later


                          • #43
                            Also got the Bank Officer out to see the jobsite. Walked him through the status of where we are at and then what will be accomplished the remainder of this year and then the final push next year. We will have a footprint for about 360 units. But I think I will change some of the shorter buildings down to 12 or 15 wide; 12 foot tall and 30 or 40 foot long. To expand the offering. First set of buildings will come in mid December and hopefully get completed by end of February. Although we won't have many rented out during the winter, the community will start to see us and we will be ready for the Spring rental push. This winter hope to get about 150 units finished and start renting.

                            The second Phase we will probably start building pads and roads again in May and hopefully complete around August. March and April, the "bottom" usually drops out of the soil. Over winter the soil freezes. Right when it thaws in the spring, some spots really get spongy and a pothole forms. So we will wait till May to start again.


                            • #44
                              LOVE your new neighbors!!!
                              You are going to get a ton of business from them!
                              Don't put off until tomorrow, what you can do today.


                              • #45
                                I am really learning a lot from this. Our 'tenant' restroom (which I just cleaned to my mother's standards) has a wide door and room enough for a wheelchair to turn, or even two wheelchairs if needed. No stalls-just the room with a hanging sink (wheel chair accessible), toilet and a bar beside the toilet.

                                I knew it was accessible but seeing it broken down by size and fixture makes a lot of sense.
                                Even duct-tape can't fix stupid. But it can muffle the noises.

                                WA State


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